This
section gathers together texts, articles, stories and customs
of the caulonian tradition
During
the first days of September, Crochi was at the centre of every
Caulonian's attention. They were days in which everyone enjoyed
the period known as "tempi i mutazioni d'aria" (the
time in which the air changes). Following the festivities of
the Assunta and the mid-August fair, when the first rain storms
began to break the heat, the people would get ready to spend
a few weeks in the sunny hills surrounding Caulonia. Thus the
picturesque towns of Schiavello, Scrongi, Treddonne, Sorgente,
Quartato, Pezzolo, Rose, Pittella and Castania would become
filled with life and joie de vivre.
Every
country road, each small street and the remotest pathways would
become animated with the passing of mules and donkeys laden
with goods which would make the time spent in the "casade"
(rural houses) more comfortable. Yes! Every man, woman and child
from our historical centre would be swept up by the same frenzy
which led the most eminent Venetian author to write the brilliant
and joyous commedy "Le smanie per la villeggiatura"
(Holiday Frenzy). In our neck of the woods, the hills used to
be the ideal place in which to spend a holiday before the sea
became so popular. The wonderful azure stretches, as a holiday
venue, began to be used by the English aristocracy towards the
end of the 1700's and by the northern-european nobility midway
between the 1800's and the 1900's. A wider span of the population
began to be attracted by seaside resorts during the nineteen
thirties and fourties becoming an en-masse fenomenon along side
the bettered Italian socio-cultural conditions: the economic
boom. This phenomenon also permitted many Caulonian emigrates
to buy their first cars which they showed off and used to ferry
their family and friends to the sun bathed beaches of the Marina
during their hard earned holidays.
Each
"caseda" was built in stone held together by clay (locally
available building material) and rooved with tiles (known as "ceramide")
which rested on beams known as "cervuni". These country
houses appeared to be very poor and without wealth! Only a few
of them had plastered walls, at least on the interior, with a
false cealing made of cleverly woven canes ("cannizzi"),
which were also used as storing space for drying fruit ready for
the winter season (sorb apples, grapes, origano, nuts and above
all figs). Not only, this was also a favorite venue, if not the
kingdom of lots of cute "suricedi" (mice), who terrified
many of our young women.
Each
roof proudly displayed a "fanò", a sliding tile
which enabled air to enter and smoke to exit, seeing as the small
furnace underneath it was not provided with a chimney. "L'istricu",
the packed earth or compressed clay floor, could be swept with
the classic heather-twig broom ("bruvera"). All this
certainly didn't make for optimal living conditions.
Most
of the time the entire construction was reduced to a sole room
set up to be convertable for all domestic necessities, therefor,
the makeshift toilet was represented by a tent of bush branches
and was only used by women. The men preferring to personally provide
the manure for their land, would go "arretu a sipala".
Within our farming tradition nothing was wasted and everything
was recicled; there certainly never used to be the problem of
waste elimination which unfortunately plagues our nowaday consumerist
society (even if we can today boast better sanitary and hygenic
conditions). Life was very frugally spent in these areas and the
furniture within the houses was likewise sobre and Franciscan:
a bed, a table and a chest.
The
chest, ("u casciuni"), was used as a storage place for
everything (from clothing and bedding to everyday food suplies);
the table, called "tundinu" because of its circular
shape, was a small round surface laid upon an intercrossing tripod;
sometimes the tablewas a classic one called "buffetta",
around which the chairs were set. The bed, which was quite ample
because there was only one and it had to hold all the members
of the family, was made by up by two iron trestles, "trispita",
on which planks of wood were laid, "tavuli du lettu".
Upon these a large sack filled with maize-cobs "frusti"
was placed (the matress cover had long slits in it which permitted
the stuffing to be changed daily). The sheets were woven with
broom fibre, and not even very delicately, but our grandmothers
would assure us that their frequent use would have a softening
effect upon them. Often a "u stipu a muru" would complete
the furnishing. This was a niche in the wall containing shelves
and often with wooden shutters. Its shape and use was remniscent
of the arab Hazana and it was not by chance that, in the areas
surrounding Caulonia, this simple cupboard which held the cutlery,
pots and pans, was called "gazzana".
Conversely,
the collection of "terracotta" objects, which were used
for various purposes, was quite rich. There were ceramic pieces
which were used for cooking: testu, pignatu, tella; and
other pieces used for fetching water from the springs, seeing
as the houses lacked fresh running water: cortara, bumbula,
limba, cuccuma (naturally each child had his or her own bumbuleda);
lastly there were the various vases used for serving and preserves:
large plates, suppera, 'nzalatera, salaturi,
cugnetti, vacili, manali, and giarretti.
Even
in the country houses, the "lavaturu" and the
"u zzipeppi"completed the furniture along with
the "pitali", the characteristic night vase similar
to the sicilian "u cantaru", around thirty centimetres
wide and varnished. It was cylindrical with an overturned edge
which enabled a comfortable seating. The shapes of all this terracotta
ware are interesting and for each object it is possible to trace
their origins back to the Greek culture via the Byzantine artisanship
and later the Arab-Norman artisanship until today when plastic
has become the only material used in mass production separating
us, yet again, from our strong links to the past. Even in the
remote Calabria there were real "atelliers" concerning
the crafting of clay and in the province of Reggio Calabria there
were registered creation and production centres along the Tyrrhenian
coastline: Seminara, (even today) and two centres along the Ionian
coast: Roccella and Gerace (today in the latter place, everything
is being done to promote production again).
G.
Polimeni wrote of these schools: "In
the province of Reggio Calabria there is a decided chromatic difference
in production: the "pieces" from Seminara are gaily-coloured
even though the colours are limited to different tonalities of
green, blue, brown and above all an original orangy-yellow. The
Ionian ceramics (Gerace-Roccella), on the other hand, are of a
rougher quality and only rarely does it indulge in some light
blue and red tonalities, in perfect harmony with the Locresi artistic
standards. The reasons for these differences, apart from historical
ones, are to be found in the variety of mineral and vegetable
components of the territory. More consistent and geologically
heterogeneous along the Tyrrhenian coast as opposed to the Ionian
coast where the hills are more monotonous and mostly clay".
Lastly, in the corner of many of the "casade"
was what today is known as a cooking-point: it consisted of a
rudimental fireplace sided by a tiny furnace made of two bricks
upon which the various pots could be placed.
Sometimes
the cooking-point was obtained very simply with a construction
adjoining the external wall of the house. The exit of each "caseda"
was sealed by a wooden door, which, commonly, was divided into
two parts and again horizontally. In this way it was possible
to close the bottom parts ("porta i sutta"),
leaving the top half ("portedu") open, the whole
effect acting as an areation point. This kind of door known as
a "mulinara", had its roots in ancient Hebrew
houses.
During the 16th century, by order of the Regno di Spagna, all
men of Judaic faith, as well as living in ghettos, were also limited
in their activity, having to return home at a very early hour.
At the time, the people of Israel, renouned for their use of intellect,
devised a strategy: the division of doors with horizontal cuts
to enable the passage of air even though in a limited area.
Shortly,
such a custom spread to many ghettos in southern countries under
Spanish dominion. Henceforth the same door used in our historical
centre was widespred in the areas of Spiruni-San Biasi, a place
of, what we term Judaic tradition, otherwise known as the "judeca"
of Castelvetere. Every door was closed with a "serragghju",
a sturdy iron bolt which ensured the safety of each house.
Sometimes, to the external locks with keys, another closure system
was added on the inside: "u mandali", a small
wooden latch which hooked onto a pin.
This
was the "caseda" in its simplest form, but our
rural localities were also interspersed with other houses with
more than one room; sometimes they even had a first floor, "soprana",
which was accessed via an external flight of steps in stone or
via an internal flight of stairs in wood which reached a trap
door known as "u catarràttu". In this
latter case the flooring could either be made of wood or of a
crude terracotta, which rested on beams sometimes made of "i
carusedi" (hollow cylindrical bricks with a hole in the
side often used by children as piggy banks). Finally, there were
the rural houses of the landowners. These were beautiful country
houses, places conceived to spend comfortable holidays and happy
hours. They infact represented the condtructions known in other
wealthier parts of Italy as "ville-schifanoie",
"casalini" or "casini di campagna".
The
life led in the "casede" was very simple and
humble. Other than breathing healthy air and spending some quiet
time, the women would all be caught up in feminine tasks and or
by the gathering of fruit or other things destined to bolster
the winter supplies.
Certainly figs occupied the greater part of these tasks, which,
picked directly from the trees, had a unique fragrance and taste.
However, most of these fruits were destined to be sun-dried and
oven-cooked both naturally ("fica tosti") and skewered
on canes ("schjocche"). There was also the preservation
of walnuts, grapes and aromatic plants. The men would be occupied
with work in the vineyards, while the children would have simple
fun like seeking out a "folia cu potaci" (small
bird's nest) or like being bent on making a "chjancula"
(traps for small animals); the most able were sometimes able to
catch a grasshopper, forcing it sing. Often the youths would be
called upon to help the adults to gather edible berries or "piditi
i lupi", whitish mushrooms of globulous shape, so called
because in full maturity they would silently explode releasing a
fine cloud of spores.
In
the evening the children would meet up in a barn where they would
listen to the best tongue-twisters, the best tales and the softest
lullabies. It was, however, "u cuctu" which each
good grandmother knew how to tell in order to capture everyone's
attention. The various "badetti", "i sdraghi",
"jufà" and "i suricedi"
would fill the heads of the smallest, most assiduous listeners.
A
particularly happy evening, destined to stick among the strongest
memories of the entire holiday period, was certainly the eve of
the Crochi festivity. It always fell on the first Saturday following
the 8th of September, the day consecrated to the birth of Maria.
During this eve, adults and children would work hard to set up
the bonfires ("a luminaria") on the various "arie"
(barnyards). Hence, in the evening all became a spectacle of fires.
The "aria" of Schiavello, like that of Obili,
Popelli, Cufò and Crochi would shine with much light and
the sound of crackling wood, the exultant shouts of many children
and the sounds and songs of the holiday makers. Along with the
eve of the Crochi festivity, began the season of the "luminarie"
which, at regular intervals would be repeated on the eve of the
festivity of the Madonna del SS. Rosario and during the night
of the 7th of December, the eve of the festivity of the Immacolata.
This last one waas grandiose and fascinating and was consumed,
as it still is today, within the Church of the Carmine's courtyard.
The
faithful would busy themselves fron early morning, bringing bundles
of twigs to start a pile of wood destined to reach four or five
metres in height. Then the youths would busy themselves to enlarge
the pile sometimes stealing wood destined for housewives ovens,
to be swifter. On the same night, bonfires were lit in the fractions
of San Nicola and Focà. Men have always had a special feeling
with this kind of awe inspiring rite.
In
England and Normandy, the Druids would preside over the sacred
fire rites on the June solstice; it was thought that during that
night, spirits, goblins and witches would rise from the earth
and begin the summer season. Later Christianity made these rites
their own and in France called the ceremony "Les des feux
de la Saint-Jean". In Germany, even today, the "luminarie"
are connected to the Pentecoste festivity and therefor have a
symbolic value, (the tounge of fire represents the Holy Spirit
descending on the heads of the Apostles).
With
the advent of the Baroque period the fire spectacles became became
more and more popular. People have always celebrated the birth
of a young prince, the arrival of a famous clergyman or the presence
of an important man with bonfires and fireworks. Festivities would
always be lavished over by a lord as a reason for his subject's
collective joy, but soon the activities became structured in such
a way that the richest members of society would be entertained
with more cultural shows, such as jesting and any form of theatre.
The lower and poorer ranges of society would be entertained by
more popular celebrations, such as country dances, fireworks and
these "luminarie". In the region of Veneto, "luminarie"
were assosciated with the Epiphany. Bramble bonfires were lit
and the children would dance around them skreeching "brusa
la vecia" (burn the old lady). On the same occasion bonfires
were lit in Friuli, while on the 17th of January, for the festivity
of Sant'Antonio Abate, in Abruzzo, bonfires ("focaracci"
or "focaroni") were lit in churchyards and at
crossroads. The "focaroni" were built by young
beggars and consisted of bundles of twigs and small branches.
Bundles of canes were at the heart of the "luminarie"
in Puglia and they were known as "farchie". Tuscany,
however, will always be considered the main representative for
these kinds of rites because, for the festivity of San Giovanni,
on the evening of the 24th June, every crossroad would burn with
huge piles of wood; in this manner it would seem as if the light
of day was kept even after the summer solstice which revealed
the kingdom of the night, lengthening, slowly but surely, its
duration.
September,
holiday time for every true Caulonian
Ritualities and customs in honour of the extra-moenia festivity
of Santa Maria di Crochi
by Gustavo Cannizzaro www.caulonia2000.it
- November 2001